tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-65117631465271117052024-03-04T21:20:45.129-08:00Wooden OptimistBuilding the Clark Mills Plywood Optimist PramK. Leonardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17244607027515035781noreply@blogger.comBlogger18125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6511763146527111705.post-35072443876681749882015-07-27T06:25:00.002-07:002015-07-27T06:25:27.971-07:00Maiden Voyage of Optimist #1Published on Feb 8, 2014
This is the first of three Optimist dinghies we are making from CABBS (Cleveland Amateur Boatbuilding and Boating Society) plans. The plans have been redrawn from Clark Mills original drawings for the Optimist in 1947. Check out www.woodenoptimist.blogspot.com to see more about building this sailboat
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/aU7tNeklblo?rel=0" width="640"></iframe>K. Leonardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17244607027515035781noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6511763146527111705.post-83670687248386044472015-07-27T06:13:00.000-07:002015-07-27T06:20:59.328-07:00Copenhagen Wooden OptimistWe have the navigation tab for the <a href="http://www.woodenoptimist.blogspot.com/p/copenhagen-project.html" target="_blank">videos</a> above, but would like to thank Mikkel for sharing the videos of his project.<br />
The boat was built during spring/summer 2015 at ES Nord boatbuilding school in Hillerød/Copenhagen Denmark. <br />
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<br />K. Leonardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17244607027515035781noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6511763146527111705.post-88727728964335532322013-06-28T07:07:00.000-07:002013-06-28T07:20:51.712-07:00Working on a July Launch Date for the OptimistMy brothers and I have slowed our building of the Optimist down to a crawl. However, my brother Darren has taken the lead and wants the first boat to launch on July 4th.<br />
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He has purchased sail, tiller and extension, blades (rudder, centerboard), gudgeons from <a href="http://www.apsltd.com/c-2702-optimist.aspx">APS - Annapolis Performance Sailing.</a><br />
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To protect the chine he has laid down a 2 inch strip of fiberglass cloth in simple-clear polyester resin. It should provide a bit of resistance to any "hard blows" on rocks that make up the shore of our part of Lake Ontario.<br />
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Polyester resin is quick to harden and very easy to sand. It costs about half the price of shipping epoxy to us. It's just a short drive to the auto parts to pick up a quart.<br />
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<br />K. Leonardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17244607027515035781noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6511763146527111705.post-84074151991905682852013-06-28T06:41:00.002-07:002013-06-28T06:41:39.469-07:00Virginia Beach Optimist ProjectUpdate from Al's project at the end of April, 2013:<br /> <br />
Well, I really have been working on this baby but being retired takes up a lot of time. For the last month I have been trying to get her finally ready for the water. What this in essence means is that i have sanded, and sanded and sanded some more. I have used every type of sanding device that i know of including wrapping a piece of sand paper around a 3/8" drill bit and sanding along some of the rough fillets. What I have definitely learned is that neatness is worth a lot and I was not as neat with the epoxy as I could and should have been. This left a lot of high spots and some really sharp edges that could do a job on little knees. They are all gone now and another thin coat of epoxy has been rolled over all the unpainted areas, mainly the inside of the boat but also the spruce part of the gunwales. I plan on attaching strips of mahogany as the outer rub rail and just vanrishing these. No epoxy. They are almost ready to attach.<br /><br />I have made my mast and gooseneck from PVC.. The mast 1 1/2" pipe cut to length and then reinforced with treated wood and the goose neck is from a 1 1/2 x 1 1/4" tee. My boom was supposed to be a 1 1/4" hardwood dowel but HD and Lowes both have ceased carrying that size (where i live) so the closest I could come was a poplar dowel 1 3/8" in diameter that I sanded down and have a nice fit into the 1 1/4" side of the tee.<br /><br />I also found that my back couldn't take much more bending over to work on the inside so I made some 24' high saw horses that bring the boat to a perfect (for me) height to save my back. Cute little things.<br /><br />Today I attached to rudder. Put the pintles & gudgeons on and took a lot of time to make sure I got it right. I think I did. The rudder and tiller look really nice. Hope they work as well as they look.<br /><br />Now I am at the stage of what next? It appears that a dinghy dolly will be that project. I haven't found actual plans for one but have seen photos and figure that I can make something close to what I've seen that will fit the bill.<br /><br />There is one more go round with epoxy filling some dings and gouges and no doubt some sanding after that. Then it will be a clean up and Helmsman for the inside. Really can't wait to do that finishing.<br />
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<br />K. Leonardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17244607027515035781noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6511763146527111705.post-13777396613984889722013-06-28T06:34:00.001-07:002013-06-28T06:34:32.413-07:00Virginia Beach Optimist ProjectThis is where Al was on his project back on March 1st of 2103:<br />
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It's been a while since I've done any major work on my craft. Been away enjoying the sunshine. I have done some stuff like cut off the "legs". Another tool buying opportunity, this time a saddle square. neat little gadget but way over priced. Also got to use the new flush cut saw that I love. Have found Harbor Freight to be a treasure trove for all sorts of tools at great prices and most have held up well. Clamps are one thing that they have at great prices if you watch the sales. Never have enough clamps!<br /><br />I have also fitted out bow and stern with some embellishments that i feel are more than decorative. Feel they will strengthen both ends. Presently they are still clamped since the temp here is still fortyish and I'm in no hurry to sand or plane partially hardened epoxy. Speaking of planing a couple of comments. I have two really small planes maybe 2" long and 1' wide. Really useful little items that can quickly place down areas where a normal box plane won't fit and do a great job. Had them for years and haven't seen any in stores lately. Also discovered with the help of my expert woodworker son "Scary Sharp". This is a fantastically simple, cheap ,fast and effective way to sharpen tools such as chisels and plane irons. Uses varying grits of sandpaper glued to a thick sheet of glass. Lots on the web about it. Also found a Robert Larson honing guide on Amazon for less than $11 that does the trick and is much cheap than most. A solid well built device.<br /><br />I've also been playing with the rub rails. Got some nice mahogany fairly cheaply and had it ripped 1 1/2' wide. Have had it clamped to the sides where it will be attached for weeks trying to give it some bend. Too lazy to make a steam box. Have used a household clothing steamer held up to the clamped on wood. When I have loosened clamps the wood has assumed a gentle curve that is far better than nothing. Will keep clamped and steam a few more times.<br />
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<br />K. Leonardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17244607027515035781noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6511763146527111705.post-68855496665732781882013-01-06T09:51:00.000-08:002013-01-06T09:51:40.949-08:00Virginia Beach Project - UpdateAfter letting the last coat of epoxy on the hull dry for several days I did minimal touch up sanding of high
spots. As I look back I should have done a lot more from an appearance standpoint but it certainly has a
passable appearance. I again wiped the hull down well after having vacuumed the garage so that I was
in as dust free as possible. I then used masking tape around the gunwale line feeling that the glue would
probably adhere better to the epoxy directly than to a coat of paint. I used Rustoleum Marine primer,
one coat applying it with a foam roller. It was difficult paint to stir and get well mixed but it went on
very well and the roller gave it a good smooth even appearance. I again let it dry well for a couple of
days and then used Rusteolem Marine Topsides paint for a finish coat. It too was rolled on and was easy
to use. It will take a second coat to achieve a really nice look. It should be noted that this is Topsides
paint not designed as “bottom” paint so if you plan on leaving a boat in the water for any long periods of
time this is not the paint to use. <br /><br />
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One final comment on the paint. Compared to the usual marine paints
Rustoleum is much cheaper but also offers a more limited choice of colors and it would appear that it is
not designed to be used as a mixing base to make your own color.<br />
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frames were still attached and were the way I supported the boat while painting. Now for the first time
I got a good look at the inside of the boat. WOW! I had a lot of finishing to do. This included filling
screw holes but mainly if was filling in and making filets were the chines, keelson etc. did not seal as
tightly as I would have liked. From a functional standpoint the boat was sealed. From and esthetic one
I had a lot of work ahead of me. Since the epoxy is pricey I mixed up just enough so I knew that there
would be no waste. This was your peanut butter consistency and applied with a tongue depressor went
on easily and gave a nice effect. I would give a piece of advice when doing this. Wipe off the excess
with a vinegar soaked cloth as soon as you are finished with an area. It is a heck of a lot easier than
sanding this rock hard stuff once it dries. <a name='more'></a><br />
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I still had the frame “legs” uncut. The center ones in particular were a real nuisance to work around so
I cut them off almost to where they will be finally but since I still have work to do on the sheer as far
as trimming off the plywood I left a few inches that will come off later. Now I at least wasn’t catching
myself on this stick that was serving no purpose. The bow and stern legs weren’t nearly the problem
and I still haven’t touched them.
I went off the CABBS plans for the mast step and thwart. I saw in someone’s plans that they had
enclosed this part and made a buoyancy box out of it. I used ¼” maranti for the top which I fitted up
tight to the underside of the inwales. Put a few cleats along the sides and fore piece to hold it tight. I
then scribed a pattern on cheap plywood for the vertical piece. For this I used ½” maranti figuring that
this would be extra cross bracing since I am using ½” plywood instead of the ¾” per plans. I will cut a
2 3/8” hole at the point 11” back from the bow and into this will go a piece of 2” PVC. When finished
it will be sealed with epoxy. <br /><br />What I haven’t got straight (so to speak) yet is the rake of the mast and
exactly how the step will be angled. The mast will be reinforced 1 ½” PVC. From what I can tell, and
Kyle Leonard has said, the mast should be perpendicular to the sheer line That is what I finally did. I
took a piece of 1x4 sprude, used a 2 3/8’ hole saw an cut completely though it and attached it to the
keelson in just the right position so that the 2” pPVC would be perpendicular to the sheer line. Not as
difficult as it may sound. Used epoxy to fasten it. I put in a 4” water tight inspection port in the vertical
piece a little off center so that the area may be used to store a towel etc. I will have pictures of all this.
The port cover is frm West Marine and cost less than $10. Really happy with it.
As looked at the inside of the bow transom it just looked unfinished so I took a piece of 1x4 spruce,
as clear as I could find, and scribed a piece to fit on the inside of the bow on top of the mast thwart.
I think it looks pretty good. I am doing the same on the stern with the exception that there will be
a perpendicular piece running down to the keelson. Since the gugeons will attach here the added
strength makes sense. BUT all this trim work adds weight to the boat so for those wanting the lightest
craft possible all this is not for you.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEkChP4UAkSoWOcm7phz5KW_ZizmMnsKEE1_0eDNajoDg-7SpAS1cN9ylHiWcZ6V8MxiZxT_Ylx1x-jjJLlxeLFSNyqraNdngOBsMaz6SJgn_An25YKGjChGILp6FE4U49GJ-ztF-jyFXt/s1600/P1050642.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEkChP4UAkSoWOcm7phz5KW_ZizmMnsKEE1_0eDNajoDg-7SpAS1cN9ylHiWcZ6V8MxiZxT_Ylx1x-jjJLlxeLFSNyqraNdngOBsMaz6SJgn_An25YKGjChGILp6FE4U49GJ-ztF-jyFXt/s640/P1050642.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
K. Leonardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17244607027515035781noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6511763146527111705.post-75883091922561260062012-12-08T15:23:00.000-08:002013-06-28T07:19:28.598-07:00Adding Hull Panels to the Optimist Pram<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHRQFlG9unn2hBhRidHDY6RxVoGMmCgnqlHaAdkq4cWJYPKD4ZCeKbV03rozAGMwndIyhIfhZYOxCWcL-NEFMl02QKmczWX45_bAXscF41th94n567mU6Awaa6rM8hYje9d9_bcBn6UvM7/s1600/Optimist+project+nov.+2012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHRQFlG9unn2hBhRidHDY6RxVoGMmCgnqlHaAdkq4cWJYPKD4ZCeKbV03rozAGMwndIyhIfhZYOxCWcL-NEFMl02QKmczWX45_bAXscF41th94n567mU6Awaa6rM8hYje9d9_bcBn6UvM7/s640/Optimist+project+nov.+2012.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Adding the hull side panels was pretty straight forward. We hand-planed the chine logs so that they would be level along the bottom of the boat. We used 3/4" stainless steel woods crews from <a href="http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1903">Jamestown Distributors.</a> I set the width for the screw holes by spreading my index and pinky fingers wide apart and making that distance on the chine and stringer attachment points. We used about 50 wood screws per side panel. Liberal amounts of <a href="http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/pl_ca_prem/overview/Loctite-PL-Premium-Polyurethane-Construction-Adhesive.htm">PL Construction Adhesive</a> were applied along the chine and stringers and things went well.</div>
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A video of the experience:</div>
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" frameborder="0" height="400" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/UKsOSaKgEhA?list=UU6RbOLF6E1a4m7XLRT5G0WA&hl=en_US" width="625"></iframe>K. Leonardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17244607027515035781noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6511763146527111705.post-27443330987132489822012-11-24T12:09:00.001-08:002012-11-24T17:31:56.987-08:00Optimist Pram Project - Starting BackAfter an exciting summer of sailing and sailboat racing, we are returning to the Optimist project. In the effort to make these boats as inexpensive as possible we have purchased luan plywood to sheath the hull of our boats.<br />
<br />
Our decision to use luan was based on information given to us by <a href="http://woodenoptimist.blogspot.com/2011/11/strongback-advice-from-john-bridges.html">John Bridges</a> who has been building Optimists since the 1960s. He has built Optimists of luan and they have been in service for over 5 years. That is longer than we will probably need the boats.<br />
<br />
We will also be stacking these hulls after sailing them - leaving no water in them to cause problems. Additionally, we will be priming our hulls with CPES (clear penetrating epoxy sealer) as a way to be sure that the absorption of water is slow.<br />
<br />
Today, we worked on the hull sides.<br />
<ol>
<li>Working on three boats requires 5 sheets of plywood to complete all the hull skins. </li>
<li>We ripped two full sheets on 16 inches the long way. This gave us 6 strips to use as hull sides.</li>
<li>Temporarily attaching one side to trace the contour, we removed the piece and cut a bit proud of the pencil line. </li>
<li>We checked to see if the template piece fit all three hulls - it did.</li>
<li>Using Locktite PL Construction adhesive, we laid a bead of glue along the chine and bow/transom about half way down the hull.</li>
<li>Starting at the transom we worked forward placing screws about 5 inches apart.</li>
<li>We worked in a zig-zag pattern of top then bottom as we worked forward to be sure not to pucker or buckle the plywood.</li>
</ol>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAh2DqDt9naATki-BBjEBF_JjOvOMV0PP0krW_vHJrE9kmGLzRXz7TDUQP67BQBSwBtRb_5mdRI6-tQeMesfEmArZAvU_c2Yywg37_Xp9kwDsm5M0dmKXxHHqzRGdLOdGDXilOqomRSODg/s1600/Optimist+project+nov.+2012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAh2DqDt9naATki-BBjEBF_JjOvOMV0PP0krW_vHJrE9kmGLzRXz7TDUQP67BQBSwBtRb_5mdRI6-tQeMesfEmArZAvU_c2Yywg37_Xp9kwDsm5M0dmKXxHHqzRGdLOdGDXilOqomRSODg/s640/Optimist+project+nov.+2012.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Starting aft and working the plank forward.</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8xaqOrMgVay17yvcwg51vAnW4ur5IiHVvkbazPoWaivNckrQfXOh7vJDyifO6dP8TbTLZJm8kzmwHcsmco6wn2EkkPaXxeo2yvOSJTKEfbzNX3FLjZvcZOdXTQOW55-ficNOq1VPXcLbP/s1600/Optimist+project+nov.+2012.1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8xaqOrMgVay17yvcwg51vAnW4ur5IiHVvkbazPoWaivNckrQfXOh7vJDyifO6dP8TbTLZJm8kzmwHcsmco6wn2EkkPaXxeo2yvOSJTKEfbzNX3FLjZvcZOdXTQOW55-ficNOq1VPXcLbP/s640/Optimist+project+nov.+2012.1.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">One side of the hull secured and curing.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQTSEuy_NOx6Oh0gJl34cuzlccM3HQOQeMt-KwKhVQ9Zq9GBUN_BQTz1vdEPTS2NC9MZZScGJdMHFfVeSiKu0WyTOExOr2RSibZgjtekMnpDa4txYcpVA5cv40gh1eMEmI3tVvyHu2FHjw/s1600/Optimist+project+nov.+2012.2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQTSEuy_NOx6Oh0gJl34cuzlccM3HQOQeMt-KwKhVQ9Zq9GBUN_BQTz1vdEPTS2NC9MZZScGJdMHFfVeSiKu0WyTOExOr2RSibZgjtekMnpDa4txYcpVA5cv40gh1eMEmI3tVvyHu2FHjw/s640/Optimist+project+nov.+2012.2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Three hulls with starboard sides attached.</span></td></tr>
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K. Leonardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17244607027515035781noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6511763146527111705.post-78020575935964979972012-09-27T15:36:00.000-07:002012-11-24T12:15:30.117-08:00Optimist Building in Virginia BeachAl from Virginia Beach writes in and shares pictures of his project boat...<br />
<span style="color: #351c75;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: #351c75;">NOTE: AL'S UPDATES CAN BE FOUND AT THE TOP UNDER PAGE TITLED "<a href="http://woodenoptimist.blogspot.com/p/blog-page.html">Virginia Beach Optimist Project</a></span>" <br />
<br />
I'm building the boat for 3 and soon to be 4 grandkids. I sail and my
2 sons sail, so getting the little ones into it makes sense. The oldest is 8 but lives about 300 miles away, so when next summer comes
and we get to our lake house hopefully the craft will be
ready to use.<br />
<br />
I'm using West System to coat and put this together
but am not glassing the boat - extra weight that I don't want or
need. My boat is Maranti plywood, 12mm for the transom etc and 6mm for
bottom and sides. I'll make my own foils from 12mm also. For the
"solid" wood I have found some very nice and cheap spruce. I plan to
use some mahogany for the rub rails - I have some nice pieces. Almost at the point of fastening things together
since today I got the chine bent and straightened - that was fun and
am glad I had as many clamps as I have, but one never has enough
clamps!<br />
<br />
Steps: <br />
<br />
I fished a piece of spruce out of my pond and tried again with
bending a chine. I figure that 24 hrs underwater with all the enzymes
and slop in my lily pond should make it pretty bendable.<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn1BNuhhPphPBcFnNW_RIGEmdfSY9aERYii9EcN7G7Of8HbQBjlCwbS1ISj74NEMuDE6TjYqmsE7SryrLrPSElyqFywuJ5FA_MFomtY10MT_wGTYY0DRy_IfFcxtSokN4GE_ylV_gNNPLw/s1600/IMG_7140edit+text.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn1BNuhhPphPBcFnNW_RIGEmdfSY9aERYii9EcN7G7Of8HbQBjlCwbS1ISj74NEMuDE6TjYqmsE7SryrLrPSElyqFywuJ5FA_MFomtY10MT_wGTYY0DRy_IfFcxtSokN4GE_ylV_gNNPLw/s640/IMG_7140edit+text.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
I clamped the stern and mid ship positions and placed the
above type clamps to make it parallel. Then I gently bent the end of
the chine toward the forward bulkhead and did two things. First I
used a long clamp around the chine and the nearer stringer. Then I hung my tool bag with saws, drills and assorted heavy items on the end
of the chine. I never changed the weight but I applied the
straightening clamps and gradually tightened the long clamp.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnWQ5lddSWUZ1gHmZ33OW9hJS0QCYwU6mQhpDIECa4UzntJLqyn6_fWSXpvnBEF_tljJX-RwKibZa9YLEVJs1yeRUrcNjDX-Pl6W76cRHnGHIxP8OKC_G4X0G4rB5hRVlcC9zykEXIkQHg/s1600/IMG_7142edit+text.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnWQ5lddSWUZ1gHmZ33OW9hJS0QCYwU6mQhpDIECa4UzntJLqyn6_fWSXpvnBEF_tljJX-RwKibZa9YLEVJs1yeRUrcNjDX-Pl6W76cRHnGHIxP8OKC_G4X0G4rB5hRVlcC9zykEXIkQHg/s640/IMG_7142edit+text.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkjt40M_qnuZ8GPZ2F2712rAvcKK0VxUJ_fD14ZJ4HoZm3AZK2cjJAWbI63OO5HzuJFINdYeO-NhGo4n4RU-X_iYrrUcUR_PaVpBde2KVBEO767SHCYjV8f6NmPHIulwYcs4ag1odTZOid/s1600/IMG_7144edittext.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkjt40M_qnuZ8GPZ2F2712rAvcKK0VxUJ_fD14ZJ4HoZm3AZK2cjJAWbI63OO5HzuJFINdYeO-NhGo4n4RU-X_iYrrUcUR_PaVpBde2KVBEO767SHCYjV8f6NmPHIulwYcs4ag1odTZOid/s640/IMG_7144edittext.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBO7zdjVygTeyD3FXuwZ7CO0nE8pW5vg4DkOLn1wTPd-IPSWBhEdfgPRpL4ZltX5z-gR3Rc05jBLEoG8D8E54d5Xx5wjLLQt81yFsSpoeKR8UwOKN0UgLKasp_7Z8fB9y2mSCHi0VfWNZx/s1600/IMG_7145edittext.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBO7zdjVygTeyD3FXuwZ7CO0nE8pW5vg4DkOLn1wTPd-IPSWBhEdfgPRpL4ZltX5z-gR3Rc05jBLEoG8D8E54d5Xx5wjLLQt81yFsSpoeKR8UwOKN0UgLKasp_7Z8fB9y2mSCHi0VfWNZx/s640/IMG_7145edittext.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgYZqQAjlnaRGc3FoxH9YY9fi6YaKsJE5qGcLdUBMZMqqCBh_G78XuXEgwetJewzB26jrfN0ojMgF1XGYu-jq6fANq1_w94G1rmWAsVhmTNTmUodkPd5N8seUfW8ORfU6lH8lwvHckyJ9y/s1600/IMG_7146edit+text.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgYZqQAjlnaRGc3FoxH9YY9fi6YaKsJE5qGcLdUBMZMqqCBh_G78XuXEgwetJewzB26jrfN0ojMgF1XGYu-jq6fANq1_w94G1rmWAsVhmTNTmUodkPd5N8seUfW8ORfU6lH8lwvHckyJ9y/s640/IMG_7146edit+text.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
The whole process took no more than 45 minutes
and I never heard a creak from the wood. When the chine was
finally in position I removed the long clamp and tool bag and attached
the chine to the forward bulkhead with a clamp. Not a screw in it
yet. I will let it dry for a few days before removing clamps and
attaching with screws. Then I'll see how the skin fits. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrLc_KXJI4-leIAeu8IGPMRqisWmZyMoxNnoCX3hxkt2dgpE3S2hv6smPh8PoyAJIcPkY-DpminG0ORMDJbJhL22GZoViNmc6bX9tvVR5zCvMX33blWUvb5cmALDlXPNs_2F6s8pUQMN0y/s1600/IMG_7149edit+text.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrLc_KXJI4-leIAeu8IGPMRqisWmZyMoxNnoCX3hxkt2dgpE3S2hv6smPh8PoyAJIcPkY-DpminG0ORMDJbJhL22GZoViNmc6bX9tvVR5zCvMX33blWUvb5cmALDlXPNs_2F6s8pUQMN0y/s640/IMG_7149edit+text.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />K. Leonardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17244607027515035781noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6511763146527111705.post-57578768571600632592012-08-15T05:00:00.001-07:002012-08-15T05:00:59.964-07:00Project on Hold for SummerWe received an email from David Palmer wondering what happened with our projects. Well, summer came along really fast after April 1st. The boats are sitting and waiting for us to pick up our tools again in September when sailboat racing, swimming, golfing, beekeeping, child-rearing, gardening, and goofing-off have slowed somewhat. Although, that child-rearing thing never lets up...<br />
<br />
Until then we will continue to sail optis in our dreams.<br />
<br />
Optimist News: <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://encrypted-tbn0.google.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTo5ftjKXpQ1dC5VYjiLR7FWCug3ColYLiABdBVHnGuJrg-wQ4N6Q" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="203" src="https://encrypted-tbn0.google.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTo5ftjKXpQ1dC5VYjiLR7FWCug3ColYLiABdBVHnGuJrg-wQ4N6Q" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From the series Here Come the Optis, by Curt Crain as shown<br />in Nicholas Hayes' web page "Saving Sailing"</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Nicholas Hayes' book <a href="http://savingsailing.com/order/"><u>Saving Sailing </u></a>was a very good read. He also has a <a href="http://savingsailing.com/">web page</a> devoted to the subject. In one of his articles titled, <a href="http://savingsailing.com/2012/07/12/opti-haters/">"Opti Haters" </a>he mentions the merits of the Optimists, and he drew some comments, both positive and negative that are interesting to read.<br />
<br />
"I am admittedly hard-pressed to say that there are flaws with prams. In
fact, I have a hard time criticizing anything that uses foils to make
motion from wind. And they’re classically cute" - Nick Hayes<br />
<br />
"Why do we have kids learning on a 50 year old platform? Just imagine if
you decided to have your kids learn downhill skiing on a pair of 1960
vintage skis." - Reply from Capt'n Ron <br />
<br />
Excerpt from <a href="http://savingsailing.com/2012/07/12/opti-haters/">"Opti Haters" </a><br />
Nicholas Hayes, July 12, 2012 <br />
In: <a href="http://savingsailing.com/">http://savingsailing.com/</a>K. Leonardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17244607027515035781noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6511763146527111705.post-73985009197106670962012-04-01T15:03:00.005-07:002012-04-04T17:22:19.839-07:00Optimist Pram - taking real shapeFor quite some time we've just imagined the Optimist sitting on the strongback, but now the outline of the dinghies has been reveled. <a href="http://www.cabbs.org/activities/2007-11_BirdsMouth_Altfather.htm">Ric Altfather</a>, president of the<a href="http://www.cabbs.org/index.html"> Cleveland Amateur Boatbuilders and Boating Society</a>, offered us some good advice when assembling our Optimists. The bend we had to make to instal the chine is a bit too severe for most 3/4 x 1 1/2 inch kiln dried lumber. Ric recommended we soak them prior to trying to bend them in place. We let them float on the pool cover for a few hours - this seemed to work well. They would have snapped like a twig if they had not been soaked.<br />
<br />
We are now contemplating the next step. We need to fare all the edges with a hand plane and sander to prepare for the eventual plywood skin that will make these real boats.<br />
<br />
Part 4:<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/0HSbglonn4Q" width="560"></iframe><br />
<br />
The three frames looking really nice in the garage.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9q0wMhFASxFBZnVETsA6DNdmhHkuFbqlceW5xYVsWSM1xRJiMBxFebXq4EgbKaCXoLUTmMiu2RlZ8AoTE3LJcfbf0BpulGO5J0htcMXxccS_wAoeYw7xCrmrLZcBRGrU1dRhvBiWvRb_X/s1600/Stringers+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9q0wMhFASxFBZnVETsA6DNdmhHkuFbqlceW5xYVsWSM1xRJiMBxFebXq4EgbKaCXoLUTmMiu2RlZ8AoTE3LJcfbf0BpulGO5J0htcMXxccS_wAoeYw7xCrmrLZcBRGrU1dRhvBiWvRb_X/s640/Stringers+1.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br />
To take the twist out of the chine at the center bulkhead we clamped a board to the stringer and then screwed the bottom of the board to the frame leg. We let the wood dry and take the shape for a couple days before putting the screws through the chine. I'm not sure it is necessary to wait that long, but we had the time to let it dry and didn't rush it.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdfEjLLEoTQYxo3PZL1Cp1JFNKh5A7Zync_g52VA7KOp3Q9Msj70sRcd3SKHo5Jp8BZZ5C2UyN0PUHt3LxSgecf6_wg5RZKjFCT6lb0k_L8CrAvrSSNDxxuP7hssYTrr7LvBsxCVgX7O-U/s1600/stringer+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdfEjLLEoTQYxo3PZL1Cp1JFNKh5A7Zync_g52VA7KOp3Q9Msj70sRcd3SKHo5Jp8BZZ5C2UyN0PUHt3LxSgecf6_wg5RZKjFCT6lb0k_L8CrAvrSSNDxxuP7hssYTrr7LvBsxCVgX7O-U/s640/stringer+4.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br />
To mark the spot in the bow to let-in the chine, we used the paper pattern that was supplied with the CABBS' plans. With the chine stringer well soaked I was able to spring it into position to check my pencil line. I made some slight changes to the template line to adjust for a better fit after cutting the notch.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU8TPJNZHkr3ahVr6qOQfhCtoKeGisA0skqSACr0sLFOWNMkAe4UNxG_R8DEnru3dzbsXv8faoaEtbcTzZ1DCLXJI4EXz0hO-aeqcv3BdtrGqrZVbWzS4AFAyDMc3rCZuPURxMcvezFfmY/s1600/stringers+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU8TPJNZHkr3ahVr6qOQfhCtoKeGisA0skqSACr0sLFOWNMkAe4UNxG_R8DEnru3dzbsXv8faoaEtbcTzZ1DCLXJI4EXz0hO-aeqcv3BdtrGqrZVbWzS4AFAyDMc3rCZuPURxMcvezFfmY/s640/stringers+2.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirdQs79hy_NVzK0ERpi_OhPKV6rBFvPisHbfX92jy9jCAeSLybCPuTtI5LfVDmIWvmb0kCgMdA-7Z80rtaqSJSkutScA-NjL1M6uqKbBgmL3v9jjNESFxyeeW0LZBtARHgyHJtZpFXgEj8/s1600/Stringers+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirdQs79hy_NVzK0ERpi_OhPKV6rBFvPisHbfX92jy9jCAeSLybCPuTtI5LfVDmIWvmb0kCgMdA-7Z80rtaqSJSkutScA-NjL1M6uqKbBgmL3v9jjNESFxyeeW0LZBtARHgyHJtZpFXgEj8/s640/Stringers+3.jpg" width="480" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I found that it was pretty easy to put a pilot hole in the frame leg to make the final cut for the gunwale stringer. I drilled the hole to match the angle that the stringer would be let-in. I cut from the front and then moved to the back to check that the line was being followed on both sides. I would cut a little bit and then check about three or four times to be sure I wasn't straying from the lines on both sides.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnC-cyw1PKVtojLz8q12CkTsLkmFv0csANFd3JSBBQmN6swXNGFAQqoJvXJpaAyUmK1BsvrY2I4w0BlGIsOZUoWPefkQ0KmcD43GHOh-Gv1WqksqrL-CcPJSQt6RPAR5w3mQU3tvS_4j2X/s1600/Stringers+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnC-cyw1PKVtojLz8q12CkTsLkmFv0csANFd3JSBBQmN6swXNGFAQqoJvXJpaAyUmK1BsvrY2I4w0BlGIsOZUoWPefkQ0KmcD43GHOh-Gv1WqksqrL-CcPJSQt6RPAR5w3mQU3tvS_4j2X/s640/Stringers+5.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Here I am checking to see if the bow is perfectly parallel to the center frame by laying a board on the bow and sighting across. There was a very slight twist that I was able to remove by weighing down the corner of the strongback with some stones (see bottom left) and shimming one of the back legs.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhrjBka8BrEQh324-XtGAFblHzUTpy8Ezqj6jegVWGoqaKAxDsmSxrnxI5OeqtMHSMTRBr3ImmKU4YPNam3eJ1J3SWYvZMdw-rt_H_CY4V8hICH49ABqppJbGQGhYY6zzVMPcY6bpN9Iz3/s1600/stringers+6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhrjBka8BrEQh324-XtGAFblHzUTpy8Ezqj6jegVWGoqaKAxDsmSxrnxI5OeqtMHSMTRBr3ImmKU4YPNam3eJ1J3SWYvZMdw-rt_H_CY4V8hICH49ABqppJbGQGhYY6zzVMPcY6bpN9Iz3/s640/stringers+6.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>K. Leonardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17244607027515035781noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6511763146527111705.post-2852313255081048642012-03-28T14:02:00.002-07:002012-03-28T14:09:24.740-07:00Optimist Pram - finishing the framesWith this third video we put the frames on the strongback and get ready for the keelson and stringers. The frames go together quickly after making sure the height is correct off the strongback. Following the CABBS' strongback plans to the letter would have made things a bit easier, but we were trying to save on wood and ended up reconfiguring just a bit. As you can tell from the video, we are using old, recycled wood whenever we can because most of the pieces will be painted and hidden from view.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/8wv2STXbw1Q" width="560"></iframe>K. Leonardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17244607027515035781noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6511763146527111705.post-44474257880574324212012-03-23T15:50:00.003-07:002012-03-28T13:28:29.570-07:00Optimist Gunwale - looking for the perfect designThinking ahead to the time when we will add the gunwales (gunnels) has got my mind racing. I remember dinghies I sailed as a kid, and they always seemed to have some sizable gunwales to sit on. Some of the plywood Optimist Prams don't offer much surface area for the helmsman's backside. I know our kids will start out in light wind conditions, but it won't take long for them to want to sit on the high-side and hike while sailing.<br />
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In my searching for the best solution for this design I looked at the<a href="http://www.bateau.com/proddetail.php?prod=Opti_CR"> Club Racer </a>by Bateau. They seem to have a comfy looking gunwale, so I looked into the way they created their version. A complete guide to the construction of the Club Racer is located at: <a href="http://www.latitude2739.com/club-racer.asp">http://www.latitude2739.com/club-racer.asp</a> It is a really nice looking Optimist that is the same as the epoxy/wood version of the Optimist as described by the IODA standards. Bateau claims that it differs in that it is much easier to build and will be more durable, and last longer.<br />
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They start their process with corner braces cut at angles to the sides and bows to create the width that will be the gunwale. Plywood is used for this process, but I think we could use hardwood to accomplish this same design using glues and screws to bypassing the need to encase the area in epoxy.<br />
<i>All photos - <a href="http://www.ysfirc.org/">Youth Sailing Foundation of Indian River</a> unless otherwise noted.</i><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVCNVO87WCD_5Mm8B3i94Xj5iL0lhMSDnZXcnjuuBjbwE7mHYPpUy3oDpdhKytiHJTrhveWoMe5POMm4yBZxGeCjGTuyETcOkDMyly-mnsELpVNKm6Sq0sh-OVV_bGOvZE8H_8MBXMGrCn/s1600/Optimist+gunwale+corner+braces.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVCNVO87WCD_5Mm8B3i94Xj5iL0lhMSDnZXcnjuuBjbwE7mHYPpUy3oDpdhKytiHJTrhveWoMe5POMm4yBZxGeCjGTuyETcOkDMyly-mnsELpVNKm6Sq0sh-OVV_bGOvZE8H_8MBXMGrCn/s400/Optimist+gunwale+corner+braces.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
To build up the width of the gunwale on the sides of the boat, they employ the use of plywood spacers to hold off the inner strake that will define the inner side of the gunwale. The picture below shows a double piece of 12mm plywood used as a spacer along with an inner and outer strake and rubrail of 12mm plywood. I believe that makes a total width of 3 inches.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGaRQaE5CnDLbCMlefvsPhI63P6SQ2WrQO2lIIsHSCqkPGXFF9oGu8xqhvLHkflfm-zdElb8VciwlqK6HdGmdf051_GtamGtnHAEbkvP-A_LeoerXQq1vJi_tTW-zXHMlVYp9r-rup_T4p/s1600/Optimist+Gunwale+spacers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="262" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGaRQaE5CnDLbCMlefvsPhI63P6SQ2WrQO2lIIsHSCqkPGXFF9oGu8xqhvLHkflfm-zdElb8VciwlqK6HdGmdf051_GtamGtnHAEbkvP-A_LeoerXQq1vJi_tTW-zXHMlVYp9r-rup_T4p/s400/Optimist+Gunwale+spacers.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
The bow and transom are finished of in less thick manner shown below:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhT7k-sta3lmf6n2Cr43AhavWyHW2RllfZa18x8WrpKzg9pkV5N1yVrthc7UDNd0Ph645itdETS-Rjfrn6nvBXs8hMslXH9IC6Hm7id-yJBqebooltXsyOio9X5G4_xH9iwVex-bPUcY-X/s1600/bow+gunwale.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhT7k-sta3lmf6n2Cr43AhavWyHW2RllfZa18x8WrpKzg9pkV5N1yVrthc7UDNd0Ph645itdETS-Rjfrn6nvBXs8hMslXH9IC6Hm7id-yJBqebooltXsyOio9X5G4_xH9iwVex-bPUcY-X/s400/bow+gunwale.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik_3YZGAyIv69AOF8GLM8j8Nf_8khJAxSFKT_WEpPmS0uBg8vzmkGFgg5mNIdIshx28oYwor95kSK9xUitOs8kuy6rD3Uu4gbnRxMxEPX0eE5RfzAIk9yg9DeLEcplmN0X2CCXB7jRU6eD/s1600/Transom+gunwale.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="262" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik_3YZGAyIv69AOF8GLM8j8Nf_8khJAxSFKT_WEpPmS0uBg8vzmkGFgg5mNIdIshx28oYwor95kSK9xUitOs8kuy6rD3Uu4gbnRxMxEPX0eE5RfzAIk9yg9DeLEcplmN0X2CCXB7jRU6eD/s400/Transom+gunwale.jpg" width="400" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">With the substructure of the gunwale finished it looks pretty nice. I've been contemplating how well this design would look if we finished the gunwales without a cap piece of plywood. The plywood works well in the Club Racer because it will be sealed with epoxy. Our boats will not have epoxy, and this makes the finishing of the gunwale, perhaps a bit different.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNn2JdMq-ElHQ5tTK92vuRCZ5ao1nSTEmZzlEGWGzyt0mN2x0MVE5sFFgV3o_Q3P229TV9O-NNEnm4JxeFrS1F7_h4VuOHyv_02FDTlKwSBqdXILrHGiipOtI0xcWTjb0Oxi8PKL1Ppp0-/s1600/Optimist+Gunwale+without+cap.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNn2JdMq-ElHQ5tTK92vuRCZ5ao1nSTEmZzlEGWGzyt0mN2x0MVE5sFFgV3o_Q3P229TV9O-NNEnm4JxeFrS1F7_h4VuOHyv_02FDTlKwSBqdXILrHGiipOtI0xcWTjb0Oxi8PKL1Ppp0-/s400/Optimist+Gunwale+without+cap.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIVcUFE3YNE1OFWHZ7XATuHSZtS1lroPVsHajYZ3ZX3Zu6Dv8aQ2Igbba-2bOo0CK3yiGI9abrjFHvbTxqsQrRvZygJ-DeMh1HC1M2E3FbXqcJ5_m8Ri4C-URWBVZTJ50RVBvq7aWi_dY8/s1600/Optimist+gunwale+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIVcUFE3YNE1OFWHZ7XATuHSZtS1lroPVsHajYZ3ZX3Zu6Dv8aQ2Igbba-2bOo0CK3yiGI9abrjFHvbTxqsQrRvZygJ-DeMh1HC1M2E3FbXqcJ5_m8Ri4C-URWBVZTJ50RVBvq7aWi_dY8/s400/Optimist+gunwale+2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div>The Club Racer is finished off with a plywood cap piece set in thickened epoxy, and then the edge is routed to 5mm radius for comfort and esthetics.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidosFahL-UceMg1MliQmeCNc3N0JT33y04oROC2RTcrT_ITWb0sbfhV0PR70bbfT69qXTj0kjZHVPAywkJ49TxOqDTdQmBecrCauy6C2FYVyJCgC54Xs_WRBS2PC1LCbjNUTZrM-Z5IPcW/s1600/Full+gunwale.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="251" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidosFahL-UceMg1MliQmeCNc3N0JT33y04oROC2RTcrT_ITWb0sbfhV0PR70bbfT69qXTj0kjZHVPAywkJ49TxOqDTdQmBecrCauy6C2FYVyJCgC54Xs_WRBS2PC1LCbjNUTZrM-Z5IPcW/s400/Full+gunwale.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjULrN6gHJ0xHUbgdUnMIuJbcSRL63x9t7N-T8sgIEeoRU7qvrdO-oHsJaMP8Ff3X9O3H_9b4TAJ4kQC7V7ShlQE3lzGnnm9SGV1UfECD9YDWFXEE84sDohFpJbUqzDSYu7G7esNJzxJOxc/s1600/optimist+gunwale+finished.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="263" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjULrN6gHJ0xHUbgdUnMIuJbcSRL63x9t7N-T8sgIEeoRU7qvrdO-oHsJaMP8Ff3X9O3H_9b4TAJ4kQC7V7ShlQE3lzGnnm9SGV1UfECD9YDWFXEE84sDohFpJbUqzDSYu7G7esNJzxJOxc/s400/optimist+gunwale+finished.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">All this great information and pictures came from the <a href="http://www.ysfirc.org/">Youth Sailing Foundation of Indian River Co.</a> and their sister site <a href="http://www.latitude2739.com/">Latitude 27/39 Sail Club</a>. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.ysfirc.org/" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="100" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL92Om4gvjP8DWsKNMIMemfbjznIw9NuSCkd03ymh8Et1UfKw1lXZ3ORC0yodSZuAWTZ38IkkAnUOOo5AHG38_ZaaANyYC6zyXYpFtA4xQKN6_Ytli_Ycy7q2GLuceRk-bT-XChUZVkkGo/s400/YSFIR.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.latitude2739.com/" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="135" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0ghdR12d0VrFnIEt30bn8zniAf7JeYhhxHRDznTHwlZzqWfUq7Af3L6qqNYkn_V_nPcaYl4ncE6eAiVbi1D8hx0nDHS-zXKBppULu_LE1707yyGK03aE8fGEFwNddNihIaB3Um0-xFaJz/s400/Latitude+27-39+sail+club.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div>K. Leonardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17244607027515035781noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6511763146527111705.post-50611566031825358392012-03-14T04:11:00.009-07:002012-03-28T14:08:12.765-07:00Building the Optimist dinghy - framesWinter is flying by, and we are diving into our three-boats-at-once project. We have spent some time getting to know the <a href="http://www.cabbs.org/pages/Optimist_Pram.htm">CABBS</a> plans. It's helped to have found some pretty nice images of other folks working on their Optimists. Nothing like a picture to make things clearer.<br />
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Here is where we would like the project to be the next time we get to work on the Optimists: <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijU9QHBX5ZWCmCGQ5OPuEe9n0SFMlqxmsFM61zPI6aFToSX1GSqbTgSOBoQQZf_AsaRcQDNIlX0nsNw_26Zsg0vzHDjGfHXlMaox6lGrpawPToAv-Tb0wnQhs2toGmqSf_HwCmHzQnkgim/s1600/Optimist+pram+dinghy+frames.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="456" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijU9QHBX5ZWCmCGQ5OPuEe9n0SFMlqxmsFM61zPI6aFToSX1GSqbTgSOBoQQZf_AsaRcQDNIlX0nsNw_26Zsg0vzHDjGfHXlMaox6lGrpawPToAv-Tb0wnQhs2toGmqSf_HwCmHzQnkgim/s640/Optimist+pram+dinghy+frames.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
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Pictured below in red are the frame stations that we are working on in the accompanying video, and how they will support the other members. We have completed the bow frames (1) and attached the bows to the strongback. The bow must be angled back at 22 degrees as can be seen below. The rest of the frames (2 and 3) are perpendicular to the strongback.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCz8F8GBFPG2dEWkI-v9-hbMzVKl-240lMl0QXSftABPbymaSzK7IMff9AA2JiC2gH1-Ke9Yp5mtyNSA_CDxaRU3qNLS0FGjKZE4WQxZyh1CayhgXKy6Ea6RgnSOAl-VlD9urH1_oCAona/s1600/Detail+of+Framing.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="483" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCz8F8GBFPG2dEWkI-v9-hbMzVKl-240lMl0QXSftABPbymaSzK7IMff9AA2JiC2gH1-Ke9Yp5mtyNSA_CDxaRU3qNLS0FGjKZE4WQxZyh1CayhgXKy6Ea6RgnSOAl-VlD9urH1_oCAona/s640/Detail+of+Framing.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
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If any readers happen to stop by and read this post and watch the accompanying video, feel free to leave a comment about the "real" way to build these prams. My brothers and I have sailed boats and fixed-up wooden boats, but we've never attempted to build any from plans. This has been a fun and challenging experience so far. <br />
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You may notice from the video that we have been using scrap lumber. We have a lot of odds and ends of wood lying around, so to save on cost we have used old lumber as much as possible. We need these boats to last about ten years - we will see...<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/mPCmBLsx7Ng" width="560"></iframe>K. Leonardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17244607027515035781noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6511763146527111705.post-16965867626309056182012-02-19T09:19:00.003-08:002012-03-21T17:02:36.785-07:00Great Pictures of Pram Building<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3XU4UYd5uh1HBTNf0CCEA6EmPPeYoJdStBXEdAOft6GR7yIzgPS3GSOFqh5-6PNbxd6ykE3xr1qbMJuOBQSRkVLGO_eNu0t7tQ48MHaHGox3n3nVO_TH1dx_YxuQp3yXgXqk2UtUL0vcq/s1600/IMG_0746.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3XU4UYd5uh1HBTNf0CCEA6EmPPeYoJdStBXEdAOft6GR7yIzgPS3GSOFqh5-6PNbxd6ykE3xr1qbMJuOBQSRkVLGO_eNu0t7tQ48MHaHGox3n3nVO_TH1dx_YxuQp3yXgXqk2UtUL0vcq/s640/IMG_0746.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>Over at <a href="http://schoolship.blogspot.com/">http://schoolship.blogspot.com/</a> they have created a wonderful place for kids to learn how to build the Optimist Prams. The pictures are very helpful to anyone planing on building an Optimist for the first time. They have some very detailed shots of the building process.<br />
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About the Inland Sea Education Association:<br />
Inland Seas Education Association (ISEA) is a non-profit organization whose mission is to help people of all ages experience the science and spirit of the Great Lakes through shipboard and on-shore programs. The knowledge gained through these experiences will provide the leadership, understanding and commitment needed for the long-term stewardship of the Great Lakes.<br />
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Page links for ISEA:<br />
<a href="http://www.schoolship.org/about_isea/">http://www.schoolship.org/about_isea/</a> <br />
<a href="http://www.schoolship.org/">http://www.schoolship.org/</a><br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="415" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/ubCUqI-oKno" width="520"></iframe>K. Leonardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17244607027515035781noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6511763146527111705.post-69935705043509647662011-11-28T15:01:00.003-08:002012-03-21T16:55:35.253-07:00Building the Optimist Strongback<span style="font-size: large;">The least complicated part of boat building is the strongback or base with which to attach the stations or molds. Clark Mills designed the Optimist with only three simple molds - bow, mid-frame, and transom. This strongback gives the builder a good base to attach the three cross-members that will set the precise distances for the bow, mid-frame and transom.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">We are building three Optimist at once, so here is a </span><span style="font-size: large;">quick look at our three strongbacks using the <a href="http://www.cabbs.org/pages/Optimist_Pram.htm">CABBS</a> plans:</span><br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="415" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/dYHgBKNLf4Y?rel=0" width="520"></iframe>K. Leonardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17244607027515035781noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6511763146527111705.post-2427110566976439592011-11-05T05:30:00.000-07:002011-11-13T18:47:21.753-08:00The Strongback - Advice from John Bridges<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxCqnRHkr5wgF6Tkd2YBXWMSLewLAHQ2RqBrM3mIoisnb8E3ow5mY_05pgesM0_AFjVGGgtJroUzUSE3Mjj8soA_WwBXXYyabNIWGgtl219YOQviqS3isu60jQLnBTCjLWLKgBwI1CU1gN/s1600/Strongback.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxCqnRHkr5wgF6Tkd2YBXWMSLewLAHQ2RqBrM3mIoisnb8E3ow5mY_05pgesM0_AFjVGGgtJroUzUSE3Mjj8soA_WwBXXYyabNIWGgtl219YOQviqS3isu60jQLnBTCjLWLKgBwI1CU1gN/s400/Strongback.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The CABBS blueprint of the strongback.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><span style="font-size: large;">We received our plans from CABBS and started thinking about the first step to build the prams. My brother is in the process of cleaning out his garage for this project, and I haven't had a lot of time to go over the blueprints. It seems pretty clear that the first thing that needs to be done is the Strongback. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I contacted John Bridges who has been building Optimists since 1963.</span> <span style="font-size: large;"> I saw a post comment he made on the WoodenBoat Forum and traced that back to the work he has done with the <a href="http://morainesailingclub.org/website/youth/optimist.html">Moraine Sailing Club</a>. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD-fskfha6bnJsn6GvZGbStLRp9WCXF4e96RpbY7hp39Ks1c9zDV9C1W7sNpKk0S88dqzVHLkVNnVzvWZ0gUseikK4gdn5krme-_L4wLAitjuFjd5ZUdWoI1U2UXo4hkjyuvTgotUhGsTO/s1600/lifting+off+the+strongback.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD-fskfha6bnJsn6GvZGbStLRp9WCXF4e96RpbY7hp39Ks1c9zDV9C1W7sNpKk0S88dqzVHLkVNnVzvWZ0gUseikK4gdn5krme-_L4wLAitjuFjd5ZUdWoI1U2UXo4hkjyuvTgotUhGsTO/s400/lifting+off+the+strongback.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">John (brown shirt) lifting a hull off the strongback.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">"I first built Optimists in Trinidad back in 1963 using the plans as published in the Rudder magazine. I think we just set up a pair of 2" x 6" timbers on the floor as a base to work from. Since then I have built others in Chile, Colombia and Ghana. Some where along the line I built the present strong back here in the USA which has been used to build about a dozen Optis out of the 17 that I have helped MSC members to build. my strongback is on legs to raise the hull to a convenient height for working and avoid to much back bending. </span><br />
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The first operation is to make the centre frame and two transoms. These will have extended side pieces so that they align with the (straight and level) datum i.e. base of the strongback. I have the cross bearer for the bow transom, bevelled so that the Bow transom can be screwed to this and it is important that the other two cross bearers are at the correct distance from the first one.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFL4zS8QuoFcWkduiswM8NU1M51esV9q1PXJ7FV3x_UaXd_sHUaNKtr5f17J9we7g53Xh2h-KmilZMb48hsyVoWuP3f9Xo9ShNPdQDrqPIXVB4QdackGzmWqhwIKyMbBYuz-y2khnRIKmz/s1600/Opti+Jig.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFL4zS8QuoFcWkduiswM8NU1M51esV9q1PXJ7FV3x_UaXd_sHUaNKtr5f17J9we7g53Xh2h-KmilZMb48hsyVoWuP3f9Xo9ShNPdQDrqPIXVB4QdackGzmWqhwIKyMbBYuz-y2khnRIKmz/s400/Opti+Jig.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Strongback in use during one of John's group building projects.</span></td></tr>
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I usually use ring shank Phosphor bronze ring shank nails to hold the plywood in place on the chines whilst the glue sets. Epoxy is messy stuff so we are usually using PL2 Construction adhesive these days. For several years we have used Lauan Plywood (Interior use but with Exterior glue) and have found that this lasts for at least 6 years without problems providing it is kept painted and stored out of the sun and rain. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjka1WZ4UGbOxB_x1tx0i0OO1XyzmHjDYom-QEYAt3tqp55XmfM61SN9ejs1xys2xkIImeJkZNrp7jJtgUb7PjgZGNsRCVK3ER50KqICfRZRTZmBNEOSgpMYwW2dvDgp3p4FMIZWwoPnrO_/s1600/Strong+Back+1948.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjka1WZ4UGbOxB_x1tx0i0OO1XyzmHjDYom-QEYAt3tqp55XmfM61SN9ejs1xys2xkIImeJkZNrp7jJtgUb7PjgZGNsRCVK3ER50KqICfRZRTZmBNEOSgpMYwW2dvDgp3p4FMIZWwoPnrO_/s400/Strong+Back+1948.jpg" width="288" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">1948 Optimist Plans</span></td></tr>
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It can be covered with fiberglass cloth which adds to weight and durability. The USA made Pine plywood does not weather well. For more permanence Marine Plywood is available for about $95 per sheet (cf 20 for Lauan) It is all a matter of, as we say in England "<i>You pays your money and takes your choice</i>". <a href="http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/creativeapps/slideShow/Main.jsp?token=554035994115:296499397">(John's photos)</a></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">As we get started on this project we will be posting pictures and video of the Optimist project. We hope to create a good record of our mistakes as well as triumphs. </span>K. Leonardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17244607027515035781noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6511763146527111705.post-78942630431768451992011-10-31T02:57:00.001-07:002012-11-24T12:17:41.355-08:00The Clark Mills Optimist - Short History<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifU9uo7JwlSLO4thYiwh58hLFx0fizFc8y-VL_9drDOPm7-cOMMtheJ6FbqgF5_g8rxUv1gE89DP3rvtJDchYXy5aMo9ajaIQjWewV1IxCRi3YMkRIbIOuR3gtHvOhqzsuJ9nsm4SUowHm/s1600/1950s+opti.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifU9uo7JwlSLO4thYiwh58hLFx0fizFc8y-VL_9drDOPm7-cOMMtheJ6FbqgF5_g8rxUv1gE89DP3rvtJDchYXy5aMo9ajaIQjWewV1IxCRi3YMkRIbIOuR3gtHvOhqzsuJ9nsm4SUowHm/s1600/1950s+opti.jpg" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">The Optimist Inception:</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">In 1947, the Clearwater Florida version of the “Soapbox Derby” called the "Orange Crate Derby" was sponsored by the Clearwater Optimist Club. There had been talk of creating a waterborne version of the Soapbox Derby racer. An Optimist Club member named Major Clifford McKay promoted the idea, and it finally made some headway with other members. He was in contact with boat builder Clark Mills about the idea and proposed a small sailboat that could be made for under $50.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTZXRF7dvXtg0T9SEpj4ZSkv6Q1Czhi1aABMsp9qN3WBIBWZ2hMY0CtUmln53F2UuIooUdRC4OaZb22rg2iOnUk8XLW2tfgZHPrNe3s6MLc1Kg831m-3G3FiXkH_HauXIZh7Li0UaYT8Fa/s1600/Sharky+-+Optimist.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTZXRF7dvXtg0T9SEpj4ZSkv6Q1Czhi1aABMsp9qN3WBIBWZ2hMY0CtUmln53F2UuIooUdRC4OaZb22rg2iOnUk8XLW2tfgZHPrNe3s6MLc1Kg831m-3G3FiXkH_HauXIZh7Li0UaYT8Fa/s320/Sharky+-+Optimist.jpg" width="236" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Don Krippendorf, in 1952,<br />
sails Sharkey</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">From the USODA Manual:</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Mills started sketching and soon ran into a basic limitation. "Plywood was the problem. It comes in eight foot sheets. I could special order it ten feet long, but that cost a fortune, so I knew the boat had to be less than eight feet. Since it was hard to put a pointed bow in an eight foot boat, I made it a pram." So the size and shape of the world's largest class was dictated by the dimensions of a sheet of plywood and by McKay's $50 budget. Mills chose a sprit rig, to allow some shape in the poorly designed, often homesewn sails of the era. Mills vividly recalls the very first Optimist hull. "It wasn't pretty, because Major McKay wanted it fast, for the next Optimist Club meeting. I hammered it together in a day and a half with 10 penny galvanized nails, slapped on a coat of paint, and called her an 'Optimist Pram.' We rigged her up in the hotel lobby where the Optimist Club met."</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiznM8R700XQp6YLUkbDJbMieEbf1ezeIlmxrZT_gDn0qtvOLy6j0DQAp2Mj0FGxGsu0te8bLbeTSQbJcse9AQar_mDqQMW9DbJDgzmaui_c9uRSjnpfvyOpEZV2GiQK5aCLSVUCHig156N/s1600/Clark+Mills+Sitting+on+Opti.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiznM8R700XQp6YLUkbDJbMieEbf1ezeIlmxrZT_gDn0qtvOLy6j0DQAp2Mj0FGxGsu0te8bLbeTSQbJcse9AQar_mDqQMW9DbJDgzmaui_c9uRSjnpfvyOpEZV2GiQK5aCLSVUCHig156N/s320/Clark+Mills+Sitting+on+Opti.jpg" width="197" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Clark Mills in 2000</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The Decline of the Pram:</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The Optimist was mainly a Florida phenomenon until 1958, when Axel Damgaard, the captain of a Danish tall ship, visited the United States and was inspired by the design. With Mills' permission, he took an Optimist back to Europe, modified it, and renamed it the International Optimist Dinghy. The IOD had a battened sail and much simplified running rigging. The new design spread quickly, first through Europe then all around the world.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipBEIvqeWUBt80vGFfUz8CmRTEAFugGgo-BOt-aQhqvbPmPCb4cRARvEeZjVj_kgAtDhDTxjWkbwZhkobitoRlSEG_JsX12c2yGevUxej3V-V7BYZkEL8QzxKlhQ3r4snBlnV29zb1rjcR/s1600/Sarasota+Pram+Fleet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="273" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipBEIvqeWUBt80vGFfUz8CmRTEAFugGgo-BOt-aQhqvbPmPCb4cRARvEeZjVj_kgAtDhDTxjWkbwZhkobitoRlSEG_JsX12c2yGevUxej3V-V7BYZkEL8QzxKlhQ3r4snBlnV29zb1rjcR/s400/Sarasota+Pram+Fleet.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">The IOD collided with a large, established fleet of Optimist Prams in the U.S. As more and more IODs landed on the shores of the U.S., regattas were scheduled for both Prams and IODs. As late as 1985, separate regattas were held for both boats. Many sailors from the 1970s and 1980s owned two boats, to sail in both types of regattas. In the early 1980s, the scales were tipping in favor of the IOD. The number of Prams steadily declined and, by the mid 1980s, Pram racing opportunities had dried up.Today, Prams are occasionally found in learn-to-sail and community sailing programs but they are no longer an organized class and are virtually never raced.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtUF-dv9f1EeZoTeSwlp8Mnw-ohYu0QNJ-V0V4gTwmVZVpHo5YPKRbjgJMg-nJLsoPF-Wn6QwzeXtF7IkywBKOzlSIkfyXEitVjhm10c827Gtw47q2zLfv9iNOjlowYwvpG0l4zbCjONu8/s1600/optimist+then+and+now.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtUF-dv9f1EeZoTeSwlp8Mnw-ohYu0QNJ-V0V4gTwmVZVpHo5YPKRbjgJMg-nJLsoPF-Wn6QwzeXtF7IkywBKOzlSIkfyXEitVjhm10c827Gtw47q2zLfv9iNOjlowYwvpG0l4zbCjONu8/s640/optimist+then+and+now.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;">1948 Optimist Pram / International Optimist Dinghy </span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbuXdWW1AMBT6qWcb2yGkZEB6MUyhh4Yy5EJWaZ0kWJjiPeu3xA542Z9-NV2ZVpAr438SYaHJ5Lye1K4gFNLNkW4H0jX0jS29WDAorVuRDfLqxoz73MhJc9jdteM4LzNvYu1iC-8rFTe6N/s1600/Optimist+past+and+present.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbuXdWW1AMBT6qWcb2yGkZEB6MUyhh4Yy5EJWaZ0kWJjiPeu3xA542Z9-NV2ZVpAr438SYaHJ5Lye1K4gFNLNkW4H0jX0jS29WDAorVuRDfLqxoz73MhJc9jdteM4LzNvYu1iC-8rFTe6N/s640/Optimist+past+and+present.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
K. Leonardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17244607027515035781noreply@blogger.com0